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Wednesday, September 01, 2004  

np: the streets - a grand don't come for free

growing up in north carolina, barbecue is a matter of fact. i've many a fond rememberance of the curb service at speedy's barbecue in lexington, north carolina. my parents and i would often stop there on the way back from either my grandparents' or my aunt barbara's (when she lived in k-vegas) houses, prior to them building the 52 lexington bypass. their fries are what always drew me in: crinkle cut golden brown with (and this is the key) liberally applied seasoning salt. if you don't know the joy of seasoning salt on potato products, you are truly missing out my friend.

after moving to greensboro and eating barbecue less frequently (ironic given my now closer location to lexington), i was horrified to learn the quasi-disdain speedy's was held in by some barbecue connisseurs. their barbecue is cooked electrically instead of in the classic wood smoked way. and people turned up their noses. how dare they.

but since lexington (and speedy's) is a 30-40 minute drive from my apartment, i've had to find closer means to satisfy the barbecue jones.

before i continue, for the benefit of my non-tarheel readers, i should explain what i mean when i say barbecue. first off, it is not a verb. you don't have a barbecue. you eat, nay, devour barbecue. in north carolina, barbecue is pork. in the western part of the state (the area i occupy), it is typically the shoulder. out east it's the whole hog. there are all sorts of arguments/various methods of actually roasting the pork, but the sauce is also important. there are two schools of north carolina sauce. this site gives a nice, short summary of the difference:

A word here about the sauce. There are two different styles of North Carolina Barbecue, Eastern and Western. In both cases the sauce is a vinegar-based concoction, heavily seasoned; the largest difference is that the Western, or Lexington style of barbecue adds a small amount of tomato-base to the sauce, and also roasts pork shoulders in preference to the whole hog. That's it. That's the difference. Yet these tiny differences have caused near blood feuds between proponents of the two different styles. In both cases the vinegar base is augmented by a variety of secret herbs and spices – some favorites are salt, pepper, red pepper, cayenne pepper, onion powder, garlic, nutmeg, molasses, whiskey, and brown sugar. The specific potion is often a closely held secret, or varies depending on the ingredients at hand, but the sauce is thin, unlike most commercial tomato-based barbecue sauces. No roaster in their right mind would put that sweet, ketchupy stuff on a perfectly good pig.

so, now that we're a bit more clear about what barbecue is...

stamey's barbecue here in greensboro is my new place of choice. open since 1930, the proof that good food triumphs over all potential hardness in human hearts has never been more apparent than at this very establishment. while black students were leading the lunch counter sit-ins downtown at the woolworths, blacks and whites had been rubbing shoulders (no pun intended) at the same tables at stamey's for some time. stamey's barbecue is excellent, not to mention the store i frequent (the one on battleground ave.) is super fast.

the first time j. ball, bryan and i ever set foot in stamey's, we saddled up to the counter and sat down. the lady took our order (three large chopped plates, various combinations of rolls, hushpuppies and fries and three sweet teas), turned around, was at the window for no more than one and a half minutes, turns about with our orders and puts them down. she says: 'sorry about the wait.'

jeez.

last night, i pulled into the parking lot, got out, went in, placed a take out order, barely sat down before i was called, paid, got out and it took no longer (if not less time) than your average drive-through. i adore this place.

anybody who reads this is more than welcome to acompany j. ball and myself to the 21st annual lexington barbecue festival in lexington, nc on saturday october 23. this will be our third year of attending and it is always a seriously fun time. not to mention you will never walk away more full in your life. guaranteed.


posted by J. Neas | 9/01/2004 02:22:00 PM


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